The History of Therfield Heath and Greens
The history of Therfield Heath and Greens has never been fully documented, as far as The Friends of Therfield Heath are aware.
Commonly referred to as The Heath or Royston Heath, it has played a key part in the history of Royston and the surrounding villages. Over the centuries the Heath has been used for burials, travel routes, agriculture, hunting, grazing, horse racing, housing prisoners of war, sports and celebrations. The lands comprising of the heath and greens that people see and use today were originally much larger, at one time it was on both sides of the current A505. Various parts have been owned by the nobility and the Church at different times. The lands are now governed by the Therfield Regulation Trust, managed by a voluntary body of Conservators and subject to bye-laws. Many past events that have happened on the Heath would not be permitted today. The Heath is common land and most of it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and continues to be protected. The rare chalk grassland supports an abundance of wildlife including the rare Pasque Flower and Chalk Hill Blue butterfly.
The potted history timeline below is an ongoing project. All the information is out in the public domain. The research is carried out by members of the Friends and will be continually updated as we discover more about the Heath. If you have any known facts relevant to this timeline, please let the Friends know, we are always keen to learn more.
Commonly referred to as The Heath or Royston Heath, it has played a key part in the history of Royston and the surrounding villages. Over the centuries the Heath has been used for burials, travel routes, agriculture, hunting, grazing, horse racing, housing prisoners of war, sports and celebrations. The lands comprising of the heath and greens that people see and use today were originally much larger, at one time it was on both sides of the current A505. Various parts have been owned by the nobility and the Church at different times. The lands are now governed by the Therfield Regulation Trust, managed by a voluntary body of Conservators and subject to bye-laws. Many past events that have happened on the Heath would not be permitted today. The Heath is common land and most of it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and continues to be protected. The rare chalk grassland supports an abundance of wildlife including the rare Pasque Flower and Chalk Hill Blue butterfly.
The potted history timeline below is an ongoing project. All the information is out in the public domain. The research is carried out by members of the Friends and will be continually updated as we discover more about the Heath. If you have any known facts relevant to this timeline, please let the Friends know, we are always keen to learn more.
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145 to 65.5 million years ago
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Therfield Heath is formed of Chalk beds laid down in the Cretaceous period. The resulting chalk grassland of today, that makes the Heath so special, is a perfect environment for the rare pasque flower and chalk Hill butterfly.
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4000 to 2500 bc
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Neolithic Long Barrow created More information below.
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2500 to 800 bc
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Bronze age burial mounds created More information below.
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800bc to 43AD
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Iron age banks and ditches created
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878
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Therfield Manor including the Heath becomes under Danish rule. The area is known as Dane Law More information below.
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1016
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Therfield Manor passes into the hands of the Abbey of Ramsey, Huntingdonshire More information below.
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13th century
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Tournaments on Heath in reign of Edward 1
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1539
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King Henry V111 takes ownership of all church property under the dissolution of the monasteries, including Therfield Manor More information below.
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1540
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Royston parish was created from the parishes of Therfield, Reed, Barkway, Bassingbourn and Melbourn. The Heath is in the parish of Therfield.
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1604 – 1625
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King James 1st England starts hunting on Therfield Heath. More information below.
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1624
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Evidence suggests golf was played on the Heath
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1647
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10th June - Oliver Cromwell’s army of nearly 20,000 “roundhead" soldiers camped overnight on the Heath during the Civil War. More information below.
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1660
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The monarchy is restored. The Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral take ownership of Therfield Manor and the Heath More information below.
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17th century
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Horse racing took place on the Heath at the time when the heath was also on the other side of the A505
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1765
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The Heath was on both sides of the Baldock rd. “Odsey Heath” near the present Ashwell rail station was infected with highwaymen described as wearing oil skin hoods over their faces, being well mounted and well spoken
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1790
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A cricket pitch was created on the Heath and Royston Cricket Club started.
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1827 - 1873
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Royston races on the Heath were held yearly on 14th May until they were abolished
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1827
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Boxing matches had taken place on the Heath for many years. 1827 saw a crowd of 10,000 – 15,000 people attending a match between Champion Jem Ward and Peter Crawley. Mr Crawley won.
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1843
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19th May - The appearance on the rare Rock Thrush bird was noted on the Heath by one being shot by Mr J Trigg of Therfield
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1855 to 1982
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Herts Militia used the Heath as a training ground. More information below.
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1872
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Therfield Manor passes into the management of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners
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1869
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First golf course laid out by 2 students
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1887 22 June
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Celebrations for the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria took place on the Heath on 22nd June, including an Athletics competition and a huge bonfire. More information below.
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1887 15 December
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A public meeting took place at the Fox and Duck in Therfield to discuss the proposed Regulation of Therfield Heath. More information below.
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1887 16 December
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A public meeting took place at the Old Bull in Royston to discuss the proposed Regulation of Therfield Heath. More information below.
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1888 19 October
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A travelling showman was charged under the Bye Laws of Therfield Heath and Greens for staying illegally on Hay Green. More information below.
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1892
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**Key date** Regulation of the Therfield Heath by Act of Parliament
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1893
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**Key date** Byelaws of Therfield Heath confirmed by Secretary of State
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1894
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23 March Good Friday - Conservators do battle with Travelling Showmen and end up in court. More information below.
The club house for golfers was built on its present site |
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1895
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A pavilion for games was erected by public subscription
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1900
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The Heath was flooded! Water on the heath is usually speedily absorbed. However due to very bad weather the ground was frozen and the melting 8-inch snowfall from 3 days previously was unable to soak into the ground. The water ran off the Heath, overflowed into the road and flooded the ground floors of the cottages on the other side.
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1900
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April - On the Bank holiday Monday an excursion of 200 people came from London to visit Royston. A large number went to watch a football match on the heath between Royston and Mount Lodge
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1901
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Queen Victoria died. A drinking fountain was built on the heath as a memorial to her. The Herts Yeomanry camped on the heath, and supported various fund-raising events with the proceeds going to the Royston Nursing Association
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1902
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As part of the celebrations of the coronation of King Edward a great bonfire was lit on Lankester Hill
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1911 22 June
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The Coronation of King George V was celebrated with a bonfire on the Heath as part of the Royston celebrations. More information below
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1911 8 - 19 September
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War Office hired the Heath for a Military camping ground. More information below.
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1932
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June - A great rally of the British Legion took part on the heath with groups from several countries
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1935
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Saturday 27 June - A children’s paddling pool was opened on the Heath. During WW2 that area of the Heath included a POW camp and the pool was damaged beyond repair and no longer remains. More information below.
6 May - Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary. More information below. |
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1941
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300 Italian prisoners were housed in 8 Huts on the Heath during WW2. More information below.
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1941 September
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Agricultural use of Heath during times of war. More information below.
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1946 onwards
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The main path from Heath Ave across the Heath was enlarged by up to 100 race horses using it daily to cross to the gallops for training. There were several racing stables in Royston
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1948
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Prisoners huts were offered to Royston Urban District Council for housing of local residents
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1949
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Majority of the Heath is declared a local nature reserve under Section 21 of the National Parks and Access to Countryside Act 1949
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1950
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Murder in the Cathedral. More information below.
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1951
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Royston trained racehorse Arctic Prince won the Derby
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1952
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Royston trained racehorse Sir Ken won the Champion Hurdles at Cheltenham
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1953
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**Key date** SSSI, site of special scientific interest, status awarded to the Heath, notified under the 1949 Wildlife and Countryside Act.
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1959
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Royston trained racehorse OXO won the Grand National
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1961
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Royston Rugby club formed
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1968
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Royston Sporting Club formed
Royston Rugby Club moved to the Heath |
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1969
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Royston Tennis Club based at the Heath
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1985
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Royston Runners started and based at the Heath Sports Club
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1992
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The Heath Cafe formed from the previous Royston Sporting Club
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1995
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Royston Archery Club started using facilities on the Heath
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1996
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Toposcope built on the Heath as a memorial to Alfie Dreads. It is the compass point with seating on the main walk over the Heath near the bronze age tumulus More information below.
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2013
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Coronation meadow site designated at Church Hill on the Heath
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2020
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Sun Hill Common chosen as the name of the small piece of heath at the top of Briary Lane and Sun Hill that is separated from the main heath by bridleway 13
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Neolithic and Bronze Age Barrows
Therfield Heath is an important archeological site. The barrows (burial mounds) are listed as scheduled monuments under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeology Areas Act 1979. The Neolithic long barrow is its only type in Hertfordshire. It is located on the golf course so it is safer to view it from 5 hills. There are 11 round barrows scattered across the Heath. The majority are either bell or bowl shaped barrows with one being a rare pond shaped barrow. Both the long and round barrows were reused for Anglo Saxons burials, indicating the importance of the site.
Excavations have been carried out twice; by E B Nunn in 1855 and by C W Phillips in 1935. The excavations resulted in a number of “finds”, including graves, skeletons, cremations, copper ingots and tools, pots and urns. The “finds” have been dated from the Neolithic to the Anglo Saxon periods. Over the years the artefacts found during the excavations passed through several hands. Some were sold, others given to museums. Currently some artefacts are held by the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology Cambridge, others are on display at the Royston Museum. The whole Heath was the subject of a geophysical survey in 2018.
Therfield Heath is an important archeological site. The barrows (burial mounds) are listed as scheduled monuments under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeology Areas Act 1979. The Neolithic long barrow is its only type in Hertfordshire. It is located on the golf course so it is safer to view it from 5 hills. There are 11 round barrows scattered across the Heath. The majority are either bell or bowl shaped barrows with one being a rare pond shaped barrow. Both the long and round barrows were reused for Anglo Saxons burials, indicating the importance of the site.
Excavations have been carried out twice; by E B Nunn in 1855 and by C W Phillips in 1935. The excavations resulted in a number of “finds”, including graves, skeletons, cremations, copper ingots and tools, pots and urns. The “finds” have been dated from the Neolithic to the Anglo Saxon periods. Over the years the artefacts found during the excavations passed through several hands. Some were sold, others given to museums. Currently some artefacts are held by the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology Cambridge, others are on display at the Royston Museum. The whole Heath was the subject of a geophysical survey in 2018.
878 - The Peace of Wedmore – The Danish connection (a simplified version)
At the Peace of Wedmore in 878 AD, between the Danish King Guthrum and Anglo Saxon King Alfred of Wessex, the two sides agreed to split England into 2 areas of control. The area ruled by the Danish was known as Dane Law. Their rule lasted about 40 years. King Alfred’s son and successor, Edward the elder, reconquered most of Dane Law.
Dane Law Area
This area included, approximately, the counties known in the 21st century as Leicestershire, Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire, Lincolnshire, Essex, Cambridgeshire, Suffolk, Norfolk, Northamptonshire, Huntingdonshire, Bedfordshire, Hertfordshire, Buckinghamshire and Middlesex. The Manor of Therfield including Therfield Heath was under Dane Law during this period.
The Danes eventually rule England
Fighting continued between the Danes and the English. On 18 October 1016 the Danes led by King Cnut (Canute) fought the English army led by King Edmund. Eventually, with King Edmund losing, they negotiated peace. Cnut would rule all of England north of the Thames. The south of England, including London, was to be ruled by Edmund until his death when total rule would pass to Cnut. Edmund died 30 November 1016.
Two Tales of the Dane in Therfield (maybe the same tale)
1) In 1016 a rich Dane still lived in Therfield as “owner”. He was disliked by the local people. Fearful of his safety he abandoned Therfield and fled to London, ruled by King Cnut. Ethelric, Bishop of Dorchester, heard about this from a friend who lived in Ashwell village. His love for the area came from the time he spent at Ramsey Abbey in Huntingdonshire. Ethelric persuaded the rich Dane to sell him the village and land of Therfield.
2) Ethelric, Bishop of Dorchester was travelling with King Cnut. One night they both stayed at the house of a rich Dane. The drunken Dane offered to sell an estate to the Bishop for 50 marks. Ethelric asked the King for help. Cnut offered the money to the Bishop and the deal was sealed.
Danesblood (the myth)
The Pasque flower, Pulsatilla Vulgaris, only grows in five sites around the British Isles. A certain area on Therfield Heath is one of those rare sites. The colours of pink and purple, looking a little like blood, has given rise to its name as Danesblood. The myth that this particular flower only grows where Danes have fought and spilt their blood.
At the Peace of Wedmore in 878 AD, between the Danish King Guthrum and Anglo Saxon King Alfred of Wessex, the two sides agreed to split England into 2 areas of control. The area ruled by the Danish was known as Dane Law. Their rule lasted about 40 years. King Alfred’s son and successor, Edward the elder, reconquered most of Dane Law.
Dane Law Area
This area included, approximately, the counties known in the 21st century as Leicestershire, Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire, Lincolnshire, Essex, Cambridgeshire, Suffolk, Norfolk, Northamptonshire, Huntingdonshire, Bedfordshire, Hertfordshire, Buckinghamshire and Middlesex. The Manor of Therfield including Therfield Heath was under Dane Law during this period.
The Danes eventually rule England
Fighting continued between the Danes and the English. On 18 October 1016 the Danes led by King Cnut (Canute) fought the English army led by King Edmund. Eventually, with King Edmund losing, they negotiated peace. Cnut would rule all of England north of the Thames. The south of England, including London, was to be ruled by Edmund until his death when total rule would pass to Cnut. Edmund died 30 November 1016.
Two Tales of the Dane in Therfield (maybe the same tale)
1) In 1016 a rich Dane still lived in Therfield as “owner”. He was disliked by the local people. Fearful of his safety he abandoned Therfield and fled to London, ruled by King Cnut. Ethelric, Bishop of Dorchester, heard about this from a friend who lived in Ashwell village. His love for the area came from the time he spent at Ramsey Abbey in Huntingdonshire. Ethelric persuaded the rich Dane to sell him the village and land of Therfield.
2) Ethelric, Bishop of Dorchester was travelling with King Cnut. One night they both stayed at the house of a rich Dane. The drunken Dane offered to sell an estate to the Bishop for 50 marks. Ethelric asked the King for help. Cnut offered the money to the Bishop and the deal was sealed.
Danesblood (the myth)
The Pasque flower, Pulsatilla Vulgaris, only grows in five sites around the British Isles. A certain area on Therfield Heath is one of those rare sites. The colours of pink and purple, looking a little like blood, has given rise to its name as Danesblood. The myth that this particular flower only grows where Danes have fought and spilt their blood.
1016 The Abbey of Ramsey is the new owner of Therfield Manor
Having purchased Therfield Manor from its Danish owner, Ethelric, Bishop of Dorchester, presented the Manor to the Abbey at Ramsey. The Abbey had possession of this land confirmed by Thomas of Therfield in the time of Abbot Robert. Possession was also confirmed in the times of Edward the Confessor, William 1, and Edward 111. During this time the lands of the Manor would have been managed and farmed by tenants. The Manor of Therfield was kept by the Abbey until the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry V111 in 1539.
Having purchased Therfield Manor from its Danish owner, Ethelric, Bishop of Dorchester, presented the Manor to the Abbey at Ramsey. The Abbey had possession of this land confirmed by Thomas of Therfield in the time of Abbot Robert. Possession was also confirmed in the times of Edward the Confessor, William 1, and Edward 111. During this time the lands of the Manor would have been managed and farmed by tenants. The Manor of Therfield was kept by the Abbey until the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry V111 in 1539.
1539 - Therfield Manor has several owners
In 1539 the Abbey of Ramsey lost ownership of Therfield Manor under the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry V111. The King passed ownership to his Queen Katherine Howard on 14 January 1540. After her execution in February 1542, the manor reverted back to King Henry V111. In June 1544 the lands were granted in frakalmoign to the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral in exchange for certain manors in Essex and Middlesex. (Frakalmoign means a form of tenure by which religious bodies held lands, especially on condition of praying for the soul of the donor. Collins English Dictionary). The outbreak of the English civil war between the Royalists and the Parliamentarians was in 1642. St Paul’s cathedral was closed. Parliamentarian troops used it as a barracks. The Mayor and Alderman of London were appointed sequestration of the property of the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral. Therfield Manor was purchased by Samuel Pennoyer of London in 1649-50. Following his death, his widow remarried to Samuel Disbrowe, who was still holding her rights in 1657.
In 1539 the Abbey of Ramsey lost ownership of Therfield Manor under the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry V111. The King passed ownership to his Queen Katherine Howard on 14 January 1540. After her execution in February 1542, the manor reverted back to King Henry V111. In June 1544 the lands were granted in frakalmoign to the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral in exchange for certain manors in Essex and Middlesex. (Frakalmoign means a form of tenure by which religious bodies held lands, especially on condition of praying for the soul of the donor. Collins English Dictionary). The outbreak of the English civil war between the Royalists and the Parliamentarians was in 1642. St Paul’s cathedral was closed. Parliamentarian troops used it as a barracks. The Mayor and Alderman of London were appointed sequestration of the property of the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral. Therfield Manor was purchased by Samuel Pennoyer of London in 1649-50. Following his death, his widow remarried to Samuel Disbrowe, who was still holding her rights in 1657.
1604 - 1625
King James VI of Scotland ascended to the English and Irish thrones following Queen Elizabeth's demise in 1603, becoming James I of England and Ireland. During his journey to London for his coronation on 25 July 1603, King James made time for hunting whenever possible. Among his stopovers was Royston, where he lodged at the old Priory, owned by a local gentleman named Robert Chester. While travelling through this area, the King recognised its potential as a hunting ground, one of his favoured pastimes. On 21 September 1604, King James travelled from London to Royston with his hunting party. Robert Chester leased the old Priory to him for a year. Historical records indicate that the King and his entourage engaged in hunting activities within a 14-mile radius of Royston, including Therfield Heath.
After the Christmas season of 1604, King James and his court returned to Royston. The Chamberlain at the time noted on 26 January 1605, that the King continued to stay in Royston for hunting, and he had corresponded with the Council to emphasise that Royston's environment was beneficial for the King's health. The Council was encouraged to assume the responsibility for state affairs to ensure the King's uninterrupted pursuit of hunting and minimal involvement in business matters. In 1604, the population of Royston was around 1,000. However, the presence of the Royal Court posed both financial challenges and inconveniences to Royston and its surrounding areas.
To accommodate the King, his court, and visitors, as well as facilities for stables, dog kennels, a brew house, and coach houses, some buildings in Royston were rented while others were purchased. Over time, new palaces were constructed, which included both a presence chamber and a privy chamber for more formal business dealings. King James also issued directives to the occupants of the surrounding arable land, instructing them not to plough their land in narrow ridges, prevent pigs from wandering and rooting holes, and remove high bounds between lands, so as not to hinder his activities across the countryside. An office known as the vermin-taker was established to preserve the game by eliminating foxes, badgers, wild cats, otters, hedgehogs, and various birds of prey. This practice likely had an impact on the variety and numbers of wildlife on Therfield Heath, all in the pursuit of ensuring the King had a successful hunting season, particularly for hawks and hares, which spanned from September to February.
In an attempt to express their grievances, locals even resorted to kidnapping one of the King's hounds, named Jowler. When Jowler was eventually returned the next day, a note was attached to his collar, which read:
"Good Mr. Jowler, we beseech you to convey our message to the King (for he listens to you every day, but not to us). We kindly request His Majesty to return to London, as our resources are depleted, and we cannot sustain his prolonged stay."
Despite the plea, the King disregarded the note and continued his stay in Royston. His final visit to Royston concluded in February 1625, and he never returned. King James I passed away on 27 March 1625.
Additionally, it's worth noting that King James also had an affinity for Newmarket, which in 1605 was half the size of Royston and boasted a similar expanse of grass heathland. The King erected accommodations there for his hunting parties, hounds, hawks, and guests. His royal residence at Theobalds in the south of Hertfordshire was another favoured palace, as King James frequently hunted in the deer park there.
King James VI of Scotland ascended to the English and Irish thrones following Queen Elizabeth's demise in 1603, becoming James I of England and Ireland. During his journey to London for his coronation on 25 July 1603, King James made time for hunting whenever possible. Among his stopovers was Royston, where he lodged at the old Priory, owned by a local gentleman named Robert Chester. While travelling through this area, the King recognised its potential as a hunting ground, one of his favoured pastimes. On 21 September 1604, King James travelled from London to Royston with his hunting party. Robert Chester leased the old Priory to him for a year. Historical records indicate that the King and his entourage engaged in hunting activities within a 14-mile radius of Royston, including Therfield Heath.
After the Christmas season of 1604, King James and his court returned to Royston. The Chamberlain at the time noted on 26 January 1605, that the King continued to stay in Royston for hunting, and he had corresponded with the Council to emphasise that Royston's environment was beneficial for the King's health. The Council was encouraged to assume the responsibility for state affairs to ensure the King's uninterrupted pursuit of hunting and minimal involvement in business matters. In 1604, the population of Royston was around 1,000. However, the presence of the Royal Court posed both financial challenges and inconveniences to Royston and its surrounding areas.
To accommodate the King, his court, and visitors, as well as facilities for stables, dog kennels, a brew house, and coach houses, some buildings in Royston were rented while others were purchased. Over time, new palaces were constructed, which included both a presence chamber and a privy chamber for more formal business dealings. King James also issued directives to the occupants of the surrounding arable land, instructing them not to plough their land in narrow ridges, prevent pigs from wandering and rooting holes, and remove high bounds between lands, so as not to hinder his activities across the countryside. An office known as the vermin-taker was established to preserve the game by eliminating foxes, badgers, wild cats, otters, hedgehogs, and various birds of prey. This practice likely had an impact on the variety and numbers of wildlife on Therfield Heath, all in the pursuit of ensuring the King had a successful hunting season, particularly for hawks and hares, which spanned from September to February.
In an attempt to express their grievances, locals even resorted to kidnapping one of the King's hounds, named Jowler. When Jowler was eventually returned the next day, a note was attached to his collar, which read:
"Good Mr. Jowler, we beseech you to convey our message to the King (for he listens to you every day, but not to us). We kindly request His Majesty to return to London, as our resources are depleted, and we cannot sustain his prolonged stay."
Despite the plea, the King disregarded the note and continued his stay in Royston. His final visit to Royston concluded in February 1625, and he never returned. King James I passed away on 27 March 1625.
Additionally, it's worth noting that King James also had an affinity for Newmarket, which in 1605 was half the size of Royston and boasted a similar expanse of grass heathland. The King erected accommodations there for his hunting parties, hounds, hawks, and guests. His royal residence at Theobalds in the south of Hertfordshire was another favoured palace, as King James frequently hunted in the deer park there.
1647
Towards the end of the civil war, an army consisting of 20,000 parliamentarians was stationed in Saffron Walden. Their wages had not been paid for a considerable period, prompting them to demand their overdue compensation. They were presented with two options: disband or march to Heydon in preparation for potential combat in Ireland. Ongoing discussions ultimately reached an impasse.
On Saturday 5 June, those who had chosen to fight in Ireland were scheduled to march to Heydon. However, on the next market day, the army had neither disbanded nor proceeded to Heydon. Consequently, a parliamentary gathering was convened in Bury St Edmunds, leading to the establishment of a new meeting point at Thriplow Heath.
On Thursday 10 June 1647, the army convened on a spacious meadow just four miles from Royston, precisely at Thriplow Heath, a location closer to London. From Thriplow, the army proceeded to its lodgings "in and around Royston." It is worth noting that a report mentioned that "at Royston, the army halted and set up camp for the night on its venerable Heath."
During this period, Oliver Cromwell and other individuals residing in Royston dispatched a letter to Parliament, asserting the urgent need for the army to receive their overdue payments. Subsequently, the army resumed its march toward London, pausing at St Albans. Recognising the proximity of the army to London, delegates from Parliament met with Cromwell and his troops, ultimately resolving the issue of outstanding pay.
Towards the end of the civil war, an army consisting of 20,000 parliamentarians was stationed in Saffron Walden. Their wages had not been paid for a considerable period, prompting them to demand their overdue compensation. They were presented with two options: disband or march to Heydon in preparation for potential combat in Ireland. Ongoing discussions ultimately reached an impasse.
On Saturday 5 June, those who had chosen to fight in Ireland were scheduled to march to Heydon. However, on the next market day, the army had neither disbanded nor proceeded to Heydon. Consequently, a parliamentary gathering was convened in Bury St Edmunds, leading to the establishment of a new meeting point at Thriplow Heath.
On Thursday 10 June 1647, the army convened on a spacious meadow just four miles from Royston, precisely at Thriplow Heath, a location closer to London. From Thriplow, the army proceeded to its lodgings "in and around Royston." It is worth noting that a report mentioned that "at Royston, the army halted and set up camp for the night on its venerable Heath."
During this period, Oliver Cromwell and other individuals residing in Royston dispatched a letter to Parliament, asserting the urgent need for the army to receive their overdue payments. Subsequently, the army resumed its march toward London, pausing at St Albans. Recognising the proximity of the army to London, delegates from Parliament met with Cromwell and his troops, ultimately resolving the issue of outstanding pay.
1660 - Therfield Manor including the Heath becomes Church property
After the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral recovered their land including Therfield Manor and Heath. They remained Lords of the Manor until 1872 when all their estates were vested in the Ecclesiastical Commissioners.
After the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s cathedral recovered their land including Therfield Manor and Heath. They remained Lords of the Manor until 1872 when all their estates were vested in the Ecclesiastical Commissioners.
1855 – Hertfordshire Militia
The Herts militia started to use the Heath in 1855 as a training ground. A rifle range was made so the soldiers could carry out rifle practise. The butts of the rifle range were formed by altering the sides of a small valley so they were straight. If you walk along the main path from Heath Avenue towards the café, there is a small valley on the left between the bottom of Lankester Hill and where the ground rises to the two round barrows. The ground starts off wide and flat then gently narrows and rises towards the treeline at the edge of the Heath. A small iron marker, 150yds, can be seen in the grass. There were numerous firing positions but only this marker remains. Shooting completions were held in this area. The range was disused in 1982 on the grounds of safety.
The Herts militia started to use the Heath in 1855 as a training ground. A rifle range was made so the soldiers could carry out rifle practise. The butts of the rifle range were formed by altering the sides of a small valley so they were straight. If you walk along the main path from Heath Avenue towards the café, there is a small valley on the left between the bottom of Lankester Hill and where the ground rises to the two round barrows. The ground starts off wide and flat then gently narrows and rises towards the treeline at the edge of the Heath. A small iron marker, 150yds, can be seen in the grass. There were numerous firing positions but only this marker remains. Shooting completions were held in this area. The range was disused in 1982 on the grounds of safety.
1887 22 June - Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee
The golden jubilee of Queen Victoria was celebrated locally with a day of festivities. In the morning the children from Royston schools assembled on Market Hill and together with members of the public, led by the band, sang God Save the Queen. The children were then presented with commemorative medals. In the afternoon sports activities took place on the Heath followed by a free children’s tea. The day ended with a huge bonfire between One Hill and Five Hills. The bonfire was fuelled by 1,000 faggots, 15 tons of wood and a 36 gallon barrel of paraffin. Surrounding villages had their own celebrations. However, “Mr Bowman of the Bury farm brought his men over to Royston in a waggon to see the festivities on the Heath. Afterwards they had a meat tea at the Victoria coffee tavern and given money to spend besides.”
The golden jubilee of Queen Victoria was celebrated locally with a day of festivities. In the morning the children from Royston schools assembled on Market Hill and together with members of the public, led by the band, sang God Save the Queen. The children were then presented with commemorative medals. In the afternoon sports activities took place on the Heath followed by a free children’s tea. The day ended with a huge bonfire between One Hill and Five Hills. The bonfire was fuelled by 1,000 faggots, 15 tons of wood and a 36 gallon barrel of paraffin. Surrounding villages had their own celebrations. However, “Mr Bowman of the Bury farm brought his men over to Royston in a waggon to see the festivities on the Heath. Afterwards they had a meat tea at the Victoria coffee tavern and given money to spend besides.”
1887 – Public Meetings
Prior to the Regulation of Therfield Heath taking place, public meetings to discuss the proposed Act of Parliament took place. The first meeting on 15 December was held in the Fox and Duck Therfield. 24 people attended. Names and occupations were taken. The attendees included a local banker, farmer, tailor, brazier, carpenter, publican, grocer, brewer and rate collector. The second meeting was held the following day at The Bull in Royston. 54 people attended including a surgeon, “gentleman”, banker, baker, gardener, County Court bailiff, basket maker, farmer, wine merchant, grocer, carpenter, tailor, publican, saddler, chemist, Wesleyan minister, coach builder, sausage manufacturer, coal agent and corn merchant.
Prior to the Regulation of Therfield Heath taking place, public meetings to discuss the proposed Act of Parliament took place. The first meeting on 15 December was held in the Fox and Duck Therfield. 24 people attended. Names and occupations were taken. The attendees included a local banker, farmer, tailor, brazier, carpenter, publican, grocer, brewer and rate collector. The second meeting was held the following day at The Bull in Royston. 54 people attended including a surgeon, “gentleman”, banker, baker, gardener, County Court bailiff, basket maker, farmer, wine merchant, grocer, carpenter, tailor, publican, saddler, chemist, Wesleyan minister, coach builder, sausage manufacturer, coal agent and corn merchant.
1888 - 19 October
Joseph Brinkley, a travelling showman, was charged under the Bye Laws with allowing two vans, swing boats, an organ on wheels, and grazing horses to remain on Hay Green illegally. He should have had written permission from the conservators and paid a fee in advance. Mr Nash, clerk to the conservators, said that for some years past persons travelling with shows had got into the habit of remaining on these Greens and the object of the Bye Laws was to keep people from taking possession of the Greens and keeping people (residents) awake. Mr Brinkley said that he had got as far as Therfield and his horses were knocked up. He tried to get permission from the clergyman to stay, which was refused, as was a fee he tried to pay the Bailiff. Mr Brinkley was fined 5 shillings and costs of 8s 6d.
Joseph Brinkley, a travelling showman, was charged under the Bye Laws with allowing two vans, swing boats, an organ on wheels, and grazing horses to remain on Hay Green illegally. He should have had written permission from the conservators and paid a fee in advance. Mr Nash, clerk to the conservators, said that for some years past persons travelling with shows had got into the habit of remaining on these Greens and the object of the Bye Laws was to keep people from taking possession of the Greens and keeping people (residents) awake. Mr Brinkley said that he had got as far as Therfield and his horses were knocked up. He tried to get permission from the clergyman to stay, which was refused, as was a fee he tried to pay the Bailiff. Mr Brinkley was fined 5 shillings and costs of 8s 6d.
1894 - Fairs on the Heath
There has been a long history of Therfield Heath being used for fairs and it continues to have a fun fair visit each year. However, the fair was not always so welcome: on Good Friday in 1894 travelling showmen came and parked on the heath. However, in the previous year new regulations had been introduced to allow the Conservators to raise money for the proper care and protection of the heath and accordingly they asked for payment. However, when the bailiff went to visit the showmen, he was sent on his way with a flea in his ear.
What ensued from that point was a grand battle between the local police who attempted to evict the showmen, and who were subsequently the victims of assault, with even the wives of the showmen joining the affray by lying down in front of the vans. Unfortunately for the police and the Conservators after the showmen were finally hauled before the local justices of the peace, they found that the Conservators could not charge and therefore it had been acceptable for one of the showmen to swing an axe at the police! The Conservators decided to appeal the decision at the Queens Bench, and unsurprisingly were successful in their appeal, being awarded the princely sum of £21. 17s. 10p.
To this day, the fair still provides important revenue for the upkeep of the heath.
There has been a long history of Therfield Heath being used for fairs and it continues to have a fun fair visit each year. However, the fair was not always so welcome: on Good Friday in 1894 travelling showmen came and parked on the heath. However, in the previous year new regulations had been introduced to allow the Conservators to raise money for the proper care and protection of the heath and accordingly they asked for payment. However, when the bailiff went to visit the showmen, he was sent on his way with a flea in his ear.
What ensued from that point was a grand battle between the local police who attempted to evict the showmen, and who were subsequently the victims of assault, with even the wives of the showmen joining the affray by lying down in front of the vans. Unfortunately for the police and the Conservators after the showmen were finally hauled before the local justices of the peace, they found that the Conservators could not charge and therefore it had been acceptable for one of the showmen to swing an axe at the police! The Conservators decided to appeal the decision at the Queens Bench, and unsurprisingly were successful in their appeal, being awarded the princely sum of £21. 17s. 10p.
To this day, the fair still provides important revenue for the upkeep of the heath.
1911 - The Coronation of King George V
The Coronation of King George V was held on 22 June 1911. After the morning church services there was an afternoon procession of local people in fancy dress and with decorated vehicles. The procession ended at the Heath around 3pm. Later, afternoon tea was served for over 2000 people at the pavilion on the Heath. The 8.30pm the whole procession was reformed at the Town Hall. The procession was lit up by by some 200 torches and coloured lanterns. Led by the band, the procession took a slightly shorter route than in the afternoon but still finished on the Heath. A 30ft high bonfire had been built on One Hill. Tar barrels and timber formed the bonfire which was topped with a further 2 barrels of tar poured on top. The bonfire was lit at 10.00pm and rockets were sent up. At 10.30pm the band played two verses of the national anthem with the vast crowd joining in. The bonfire lasted over an hour.
The Coronation of King George V was held on 22 June 1911. After the morning church services there was an afternoon procession of local people in fancy dress and with decorated vehicles. The procession ended at the Heath around 3pm. Later, afternoon tea was served for over 2000 people at the pavilion on the Heath. The 8.30pm the whole procession was reformed at the Town Hall. The procession was lit up by by some 200 torches and coloured lanterns. Led by the band, the procession took a slightly shorter route than in the afternoon but still finished on the Heath. A 30ft high bonfire had been built on One Hill. Tar barrels and timber formed the bonfire which was topped with a further 2 barrels of tar poured on top. The bonfire was lit at 10.00pm and rockets were sent up. At 10.30pm the band played two verses of the national anthem with the vast crowd joining in. The bonfire lasted over an hour.
1911 8 to 19 September
In September 1911 an agreement was made between the conservators and His Majesty’s Principal Secretary of State for the War Department for use of the Heath as a military camping ground for 12 days. Prior to the troops arriving, advance parties had 40 days to prepare the grounds by laying water pipes. Two areas of land were used. 24 acres along the Baldock road and 6 acres on lower Lankester Hill. The camping grounds had to be big enough for 1000 troops plus horses. The newly laid pipes had to supply 1000 gallons of water for the troops and 10,000 gallons for the horses every day. The War Office paid £25 for the troops to camp on the Heath.
In September 1911 an agreement was made between the conservators and His Majesty’s Principal Secretary of State for the War Department for use of the Heath as a military camping ground for 12 days. Prior to the troops arriving, advance parties had 40 days to prepare the grounds by laying water pipes. Two areas of land were used. 24 acres along the Baldock road and 6 acres on lower Lankester Hill. The camping grounds had to be big enough for 1000 troops plus horses. The newly laid pipes had to supply 1000 gallons of water for the troops and 10,000 gallons for the horses every day. The War Office paid £25 for the troops to camp on the Heath.
1935
Before the opening of the paddling pool on the Heath, children used to enjoy paddling in a natural pond that had formed alongside Baldock Road. The concept of a proper paddling pool, complete with a concrete surround and public seating, was the brainchild of local entrepreneur and Royston resident, James Course. Jimmy, as he was commonly known, secured permission from the conservators and personally funded the entire project, overseeing its construction.
Unfortunately, vandals later intentionally damaged both the pool and the seating, prompting Jimmy to undertake repairs himself. Tragically, during the Second World War, a portion of the Heath was converted into a prisoner-of-war camp, resulting in irreparable damage to the pool, rendering it unusable.
Before the opening of the paddling pool on the Heath, children used to enjoy paddling in a natural pond that had formed alongside Baldock Road. The concept of a proper paddling pool, complete with a concrete surround and public seating, was the brainchild of local entrepreneur and Royston resident, James Course. Jimmy, as he was commonly known, secured permission from the conservators and personally funded the entire project, overseeing its construction.
Unfortunately, vandals later intentionally damaged both the pool and the seating, prompting Jimmy to undertake repairs himself. Tragically, during the Second World War, a portion of the Heath was converted into a prisoner-of-war camp, resulting in irreparable damage to the pool, rendering it unusable.
1935 6 May - Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary
The Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary was celebrated on Therfield Heath. Lankester Hill was the site of a huge bonfire built to commemorate this event. The building of the bonfire was a joint effort between the Rover Scouts and the 1st and 2nd Royston Groups. To prevent the bonfire being lit prematurely the Rovers carried out a rota of "guard duty" for several nights. They camped on the Heath Close to the bonfire. On the day, loud speakers at the pavilion broadcast the speech made by King George V across the Heath so everyone could hear such a special event.
The Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary was celebrated on Therfield Heath. Lankester Hill was the site of a huge bonfire built to commemorate this event. The building of the bonfire was a joint effort between the Rover Scouts and the 1st and 2nd Royston Groups. To prevent the bonfire being lit prematurely the Rovers carried out a rota of "guard duty" for several nights. They camped on the Heath Close to the bonfire. On the day, loud speakers at the pavilion broadcast the speech made by King George V across the Heath so everyone could hear such a special event.
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1941 August
World War 2 started in 1939. In August two years later a prisoner-of-war camp was set up on Therfield Heath. Known officially as Lager 29 Royston West or locally as just Camp 29, it was originally built to house 300 of the many hundreds of Italian soldiers who had been captured in battle in North Africa and brought as POW’s to England. The camp was located to the right and beyond of the current Heath Café with the Baldock road on the right. 240 men were used as agricultural labourers in the area whilst the remaining 60 men were used for building huts at other prison camps in the Cambridge area. The camp was enlarged in December 1941 by a further 8 huts, housing another 96 prisoners. The Italians stayed until August 1944. In September 1944 the camp was filled with German soldiers. The camp was surrounded by a barbed wire fence with corner lookout towers for guards. The children’s paddling pool on the Heath was irreparably damaged when the POW’s stored coke, used for heating and cooking, in the pool. The prisoners were treated well and sometimes gave concerts in the Town or attended church. Repatriation for the prisoners started in 1947 and in 1948 the last 150 men received civilian status. In 1951 the war department paid the conservators £17 in respect of damage to the Heath through the recent occupation of the Military. |
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1941 September
Therfield Heath has never been regarded as prime agricultural land. However in times of war every piece of available land is used to grow crops. Striations across the land, caused by ploughing, can still be seen at times on Lankester Hill when it was used for growing food during the Napoleonic era when British ports were blockaded. The Heath was ploughed up again during World War 2.
Two areas of Therfield Heath were requisitioned by the Hertfordshire War Agricultural Executive Committee (HWAEC) for agricultural use. 86 acres in the area of the Gallops and further along the Baldock road towards Royston, were let to Mr Litchfield from December 1941 and 54 acres ( details not stated) rented by Heath Farm Dairy, Wicker Hall. Letters from the time state that the purpose “was to grow corn”.
A sub committee report for submission to the HWAEC on 3 February 1949 states: “ The Minister of Agriculture with a desire to assist in the blood stock industry and retain a source of dollar revenue wrote to the executive committee suggesting that the land be relinquished at Michaelmas in 1949 with a view to the land being let by the conservators to Mr Stevenson a trainer of thoroughbred horses. Under Mr Litchfield’s tenancy agreement he is required in the last year of tenancy to carry out necessary cultivation, the executive committee providing seeds, and hand the land back in grass.”
Mr Litchfield agreed to relinquish his tenancy and was paid £396 for the cost of the seed. In July 1948 the HWAEC paid compensation rent to the conservators of £15.1s.0d per annum for the Gallops and £9.16s.0d on the second plot. 10 shillings was paid as a war damage contribution to the cricket pitch and rifle butts for damage between July 1943 – July 1945. In 1949 the conservators wrote to the Hertfordshire War Agricultural Executive Committee asking to take back the Heath that was being used for agricultural purposes. The HWAEC stated in 1952 that they would be retaining a portion of the Heath until 1954. In 1954 the HWAEC asked to continue to requisition the land until 1955. All requisitioned land was finally handed back to the conservators in 1955.
Therfield Heath has never been regarded as prime agricultural land. However in times of war every piece of available land is used to grow crops. Striations across the land, caused by ploughing, can still be seen at times on Lankester Hill when it was used for growing food during the Napoleonic era when British ports were blockaded. The Heath was ploughed up again during World War 2.
Two areas of Therfield Heath were requisitioned by the Hertfordshire War Agricultural Executive Committee (HWAEC) for agricultural use. 86 acres in the area of the Gallops and further along the Baldock road towards Royston, were let to Mr Litchfield from December 1941 and 54 acres ( details not stated) rented by Heath Farm Dairy, Wicker Hall. Letters from the time state that the purpose “was to grow corn”.
A sub committee report for submission to the HWAEC on 3 February 1949 states: “ The Minister of Agriculture with a desire to assist in the blood stock industry and retain a source of dollar revenue wrote to the executive committee suggesting that the land be relinquished at Michaelmas in 1949 with a view to the land being let by the conservators to Mr Stevenson a trainer of thoroughbred horses. Under Mr Litchfield’s tenancy agreement he is required in the last year of tenancy to carry out necessary cultivation, the executive committee providing seeds, and hand the land back in grass.”
Mr Litchfield agreed to relinquish his tenancy and was paid £396 for the cost of the seed. In July 1948 the HWAEC paid compensation rent to the conservators of £15.1s.0d per annum for the Gallops and £9.16s.0d on the second plot. 10 shillings was paid as a war damage contribution to the cricket pitch and rifle butts for damage between July 1943 – July 1945. In 1949 the conservators wrote to the Hertfordshire War Agricultural Executive Committee asking to take back the Heath that was being used for agricultural purposes. The HWAEC stated in 1952 that they would be retaining a portion of the Heath until 1954. In 1954 the HWAEC asked to continue to requisition the land until 1955. All requisitioned land was finally handed back to the conservators in 1955.
1950 - Murder in the Cathedral
In 1950, the Conservators charged £10 for the use of Therfield Heath to shoot the film "Murder in the Cathedral," which was later released in 1951. You can watch a 57-second excerpt of the film on YouTube through BFI. If you are familiar with Therfield Heath, you'll easily recognise the filming locations.
In 1950, the Conservators charged £10 for the use of Therfield Heath to shoot the film "Murder in the Cathedral," which was later released in 1951. You can watch a 57-second excerpt of the film on YouTube through BFI. If you are familiar with Therfield Heath, you'll easily recognise the filming locations.
1996 - Toposcope built on the Heath
The toposcope, topograph or orientation table is a panoramic guide that points out the notable features and interesting sights that can be seen from a high point on the Heath. Placing a toposcope on the Heath was the idea of Rotary member John Newham. The funding came from fellow Rotarian Alfred Dreads. Local craftsmen carried out the work using local materials. The flints were found in the nearby fields by the then Heath ranger Eoin Bell. The points of the compass are in metal as part of the structure that supports the seating surrounding the toposcope.
The toposcope, topograph or orientation table is a panoramic guide that points out the notable features and interesting sights that can be seen from a high point on the Heath. Placing a toposcope on the Heath was the idea of Rotary member John Newham. The funding came from fellow Rotarian Alfred Dreads. Local craftsmen carried out the work using local materials. The flints were found in the nearby fields by the then Heath ranger Eoin Bell. The points of the compass are in metal as part of the structure that supports the seating surrounding the toposcope.
eReferences and Acknowledgements – with thanks to
Hertfordshire A Landscape History by Rowe and Williamson
Therfield Heath website
Scottish golf history
History of the Heath and Golf Club
Royston Crow (Herts and Cambs Reporter) via Royston and District Local History Society
The Cambridge Chronicle
Herts. and Mercury
Royston Rugby Club website
Royston Tennis Club website
Royston Rotary website
Thanks to Mr D Robertson
Thanks to Mr P Ketteringham
Thanks to Mrs A Louch
Thanks to Mrs D Dawes
Fragments of Two Centuries by Alfred Kingston
20th Century Royston by Fred Sillence
Palaces of Revolution - Simon Thurley
Hertfordshire History During the Great Civil War and the Long Parliament - Kingston published 1894
Village Chronicles 3 N. Herts Village Research Group
Hertfordshire A Landscape History by Rowe and Williamson
Therfield Heath website
Scottish golf history
History of the Heath and Golf Club
Royston Crow (Herts and Cambs Reporter) via Royston and District Local History Society
The Cambridge Chronicle
Herts. and Mercury
Royston Rugby Club website
Royston Tennis Club website
Royston Rotary website
Thanks to Mr D Robertson
Thanks to Mr P Ketteringham
Thanks to Mrs A Louch
Thanks to Mrs D Dawes
Fragments of Two Centuries by Alfred Kingston
20th Century Royston by Fred Sillence
Palaces of Revolution - Simon Thurley
Hertfordshire History During the Great Civil War and the Long Parliament - Kingston published 1894
Village Chronicles 3 N. Herts Village Research Group